Pizzeria Solario

A jaunt through the Greenway on a crisp Friday evening took my wandering feet to a hidden gem just off the avenue. I was looking for a bite while sifting through the hour before my movie began, and I needed something filling but not heavy. After all, I’d been on the run throughout the day, with my attention called to Baytown and back to Houston and one concern after another tugging at my collar. Before I realized it, I’d gone from sunup to sundown without a single meal. Not bad for those on a diet I suppose, but it left me ravenously hungry and I knew I was in danger of over indulging in one of those all too familiar moments we all experience. We all know it, that second when our hunger overcomes us and, in a moment of weakness, we consume our entire day’s worth of meals in one sit down over a burger dribbling with grease or a six course meal meant for two and eaten by one.

There are a number of restaurants across the street from the Edwards Greenway Grand Palace Theatre, but I was in no mood for chain dining and Mexican food, good as it is, wasn’t quite the taste I was looking for. So, what should I see, to my surprise, but a sign. Like all good things sent down from Heaven, it called from the sky, though I suppose the good Lord never sent a message written in neon light with the words Vino + Pizza.

 A few stumbling miscues greeted me at the front. While people seemed to be seated and enjoying themselves both outside on the patio and inside the restaurant, there was no front of house, nobody to greet you, and it made staying a chore. A register off to the right was in use, but was I supposed to place an order there? Was someone supposed to greet me and seat me? I shouldn’t have to play guessing games on my seating arrangement after all, and having to pull someone aside and ask them where I was to sit made me feel much like the uncomfortable eight year old getting on the local bus for the first time.

I was instructed to the bar. After all, I was alone, no need to take up an entire table to myself. The energy was high and because of the small area, conversations were flowing with tidbits floating through the air. With such comfort and ease it was no problem striking up a quick chat with those on my left and right, with everyone commenting on the other’s food and how delicious it looked. Really, half of Pizzeria Solario’s charm is its size. It allows you a moment to be part of something social, taking you out of the sterility of restaurants that adorn themselves with too much pomp. For a casual Friday evening, this was just what I was looking for. Their chalk drawn boards gave it a real cafe feel and everything came alive with that ambiance one needs to feel reinvigorated.

Which made an unfortunate contrast to the menu, which obsesses itself with unneeded foppery. I challenge the owner of the restaurant to tell me how many of his customers are genuine Italians. I’d venture not many. So why insist on naming your entrees in Italian? It doesn’t sell the dish. Fortunately, the ingredients do, as did the bartender. Upon recommendation he highlighted the Parma 600, given my aversion to anything too heavy. It was a popular choice by all appearance, as both the couple on my left and right chose it as well.

There’s a reason for that. The light crust is moist but firm on the interior with a lightly crisped crust that isn’t burnt. It is decorated in arugula lightly dressed in white truffle oil and sitting upon thin layers of cheese, all made that much more delicious by the wonderful choice of prosciutto. Now this is an unusual choice for pizza at the more common locales, but prosciutto brings just the right type of flavor to highlight the cheese. The arugula forms a filling that gives the pizza an extra punch and that sensation that you’re eating something truly substantial. Ah, the wonders of vegetables. Truly, though, the blend of cheeses and the prosciutto mix wonderfully with the truffle oil. It’s a light pizza, not loaded with layers of meat and cheese, but just enough to send your senses sailing. Alongside my two glasses of light Moretti beer, it made for a perfect dinner. Not too heavy, just enough to fill, and wonderfully tasty.

After a rough start, the restaurant closed out well. I’m still not a huge fan of the two drink minimum on wines, especially those on the lower end of the price range. Give your customers more choices, rather than constraining them. Still, the food’s the thing, and it was delicious. Besides, there’s little compared to the wonderful energy that Pizzeria Solario exudes. More than content with my experience, I boxed half of my food to go before stepping back underneath the neon lights of Vino + Pizza. Ah, Solario. Bellissimo.